After my adventures in the Visayas, it was time to head north and experience a new region of the Philippines: Luzon. This part of the country is home to diverse landscapes, from towering mountains to bustling cities and, most importantly for me, some of the best surf spots in the country. I made my way to La Union, a province along the northwest coast of Luzon, known for its surf culture and consistent waves. Over the next few days, I would immerse myself in the surf scene here while exploring the vibrant local community and natural beauty of the region.
La Union has become a mecca for surfers, not just because of its waves but also due to its welcoming atmosphere. The town of San Juan, often referred to as the surfing capital of Northern Luzon, is where most of the surf action happens. Upon arrival, the laid-back vibe of the town was immediately apparent. The streets were lined with surf shops, casual eateries, and beach bars, and there was an unmistakable sense of community among locals and travelers alike. Everyone was here for one thing: the waves.
La Union offers a variety of surf breaks, making it an ideal spot for surfers of all levels. Since the waves in Siargao and the Visayas had been more challenging, I was excited to enjoy some easier rides and work on my technique in a more relaxed setting. The most popular break in San Juan is simply known as the Beach Break, and it’s perfect for beginners and intermediate surfers. The waves are long, mellow, and consistent, giving me plenty of time to practice my turns and transitions.
Each morning, I joined other surfers at dawn to paddle out into the gentle waves. There’s something magical about the early mornings in La Union—the sun rising over the horizon, casting golden light on the water, and the quiet hum of the town slowly coming to life. The waves in La Union, while not as intense as those in Siargao, offered a different kind of challenge. They required finesse rather than brute strength, and I found myself focusing more on style and flow rather than just surviving the ride. It was a welcome change of pace and gave me the chance to refine my skills.
One of the best aspects of La Union is the surf community. Unlike some of the more commercialized surf spots in Southeast Asia, La Union still retains an authentic, grassroots surf culture. The locals are incredibly friendly and always willing to give advice or share a wave. I spent time chatting with local surfers who had been riding these waves their whole lives. Their love for the ocean was palpable, and it reminded me of the deep connection that Filipinos have with the sea, a relationship that goes beyond just surfing.
But La Union isn’t just about surfing—it’s a hub for creativity, arts, and eco-conscious living. Between surf sessions, I explored the growing number of art galleries, workshops, and eco-friendly shops that have sprung up in recent years. The town has become a gathering place for Filipino artists, musicians, and entrepreneurs, many of whom are passionate about sustainability and preserving the natural beauty of the region. This blend of surf culture and creativity gave La Union a unique vibe, unlike any other surf destination I had visited.
One of my favorite places in La Union was El Union Coffee, a local café that has become an institution for surfers and creatives alike. El Union isn’t just about coffee—it’s a community hub where people gather to swap stories, plan their next surf session, or simply enjoy a quiet moment after a long day on the waves. The café prides itself on using sustainable practices and supporting local farmers, which fits perfectly with the overall eco-conscious ethos of La Union.
The creative energy in La Union extends beyond the coffee shops and into the beaches themselves. In the evenings, bonfires would spring up along the shore, with surfers and travelers gathering to listen to live acoustic music, share stories, and enjoy the tranquil sound of the waves crashing in the background. It felt like one of those rare places where time slows down, and the worries of the outside world seem to fade away.
Apart from surfing and soaking up the creative vibe, La Union also has a wealth of natural beauty waiting to be explored. One of the highlights of my trip was visiting Tangadan Falls, a hidden gem located just a short trek from San Juan. The hike to the falls takes you through lush green forests and small villages, offering a glimpse into rural life in the Philippines. Upon reaching the falls, I was greeted by the sight of cascading water plunging into a natural pool below. After days of surfing in the sun, jumping into the cool waters of Tangadan Falls was a refreshing and invigorating experience.
Another must-visit spot in the region is the Agoo Eco Park, a peaceful sanctuary filled with towering trees, scenic walking trails, and a serene lake. The park provided the perfect escape when I wanted to take a break from the ocean and immerse myself in nature. The calm and tranquil environment of Agoo allowed me to reflect on my journey so far, and it was a beautiful reminder of the diverse landscapes that make the Philippines so special.
During my time in La Union, I also made sure to try some of the local cuisine. Filipino food in this part of the country is heavily influenced by Ilocano culture, and I couldn’t resist sampling dishes like bagnet (crispy pork belly), pinakbet (a vegetable stew with shrimp paste), and empanada (a fried pastry stuffed with meat and vegetables). The flavors were bold and hearty, a perfect match for the rugged coastline and strong surf culture of La Union.
As my time in Northern Luzon came to an end, I reflected on how different this region was from the places I had visited earlier in the Philippines. While Siargao was all about chasing the perfect wave, and the Visayas offered a mix of wildlife and adventure, La Union provided a deeper connection to both the surf and the local community. It wasn’t just about riding waves here—it was about becoming part of a culture that values creativity, sustainability, and the simple pleasures of life by the sea.
La Union may not have the world-famous waves of other surf destinations, but it has something even more valuable: a sense of authenticity and belonging that is hard to find elsewhere. The people I met, the waves I rode, and the experiences I had here will stay with me long after I leave. Surfing in La Union wasn’t just another stop on my global adventure—it was a reminder of why I love the ocean and the communities that spring up around it.
As I packed up my board and prepared for the next leg of my journey, I knew that La Union had left a lasting impact on me. The waves, the creativity, the connection to nature—it all came together in a way that made me feel both inspired and at peace. Northern Luzon had given me more than I expected, and I left with a deep appreciation for the unique magic of this special place.
